KNOW MY COMPANY: How Doc Martens put

Interview by Lauren Emms

THEY’RE the world’s most iconic shoes, famed for their thick air-cushion soles, prominent yellow stitching and an edgy image that has enabled them, almost uniquely, to cut across all social divides and classes, ages and genders.

Indeed, for many, ownership of a pair is a virtual rite of passage.  Quite simply, when it comes to popular mass market footwear, nothing compares to Dr. Martens shoes.

For 50 years, this celebrated British brand has been a fashion-setting giant, so it’s somewhat ironic to discover that its owners have followed a popular commercial trend by outsourcing production of their shoes. And in this case, it’s to Thailand.

Today, a substantial number of Dr. Martens’ AirWair branded shoes are made at the sprawling CK Shoe Factory in the northeastern town of Khon Kaen.

In charge of production is Ian Leybourne, a 47-year-old Briton with almost 30 years’ experience in the shoe business. As the Asia Sourcing Manager for Dr. Martens, he is based mostly in Khon Kaen observing quality, planning, development and delivery of some of the most enduring and distinctive footwear to hit the high streets.

We caught up with Ian and asked him about Dr. Martens’ operations.

How long have you been in Thailand?
Eight years, but I have briefly spent some time in Vietnam as well - also working in the footwear business.
When did Dr. Martens open its

factory in Thailand?
The factory itself doesn’t belong to Dr. Martens. We’ve been working with CK Shoe Factory in Khon Kaen for more than 10 years.

How big is the factory?
It’s huge, consisting of seven buildings, located about 20 minutes’ outside Khon Kaen

How many employees?
Dr. Martens has between 800-900 workers.

Any other expatriates at the factory?
One other expatriate, working for the factory as an account manager

Have you seen any changes in terms of sales due to fashion trends?
Nearly all our production is exported to Europe, Asia and the United States.
Dr. Martens are now at the top of fashion at the moment so sales are extremely good. The Asian market has done really well for us over the last 2-3 years.

 How did you get to your current position at Dr. Martens?  
I’m from Northamptonshire, a part of the UK known as a traditional shoe-making area. Back in the late 70s and early 80s, there were many leather factories. I was interested in art and got involved in pattern cutting (cutting and developing paper patterns) which helped me move into footwear technology.  I was based in London but traveled the world as a technical and sourcing manager for suppliers such as Marks and Spencer, Shellys and Dolcis. This eventually proceeded to my current position. 

 Where else are Dr. Martens shoes manufactured?
UK, Vietnam and China and Thailand.

 How do you find Thai workers?
They work very long hours, for which they should be credited, but are different from employees I’ve worked with in other countries. For example, workers in Vietnam are regimented. Thais are very laid back – and you need to push them a bit.

Any labor disputes?
No.

How are working hours and conditions for staff?
A considerable amount of work has been done to improve the factory’s efficiency, enabling us to reduce working hours. Conditions are very good and like many factories, workers have the opportunity to rent rooms close to the factories.

Are all the staff locals?
No. The factory also has some workers from Laos.

What are the major challenges at the workplace?
Language can sometimes be a problem but most of the CK management speaks English. Additional problems sometimes include trying to get maximum productivity out the workforce and finding additional workers.

Who designs the shoes?
We have a design team based in London. Our shoes are predominantly for men, but we also make shoes for women.

How often are designs changed?
They change every other season, so twice a year. However, some of our originals have stayed the same for 50 years - last year was Dr. Martens’ 50th anniversary.

What’s the preferred design?
The 8 eyelet 1460 boot is very iconic – and most of our customers go for this traditional look. Nevertheless, many of the design changes are down to the materials used.

Where can you buy Dr. Martens in Bangkok?
Most Central stores sell them. So do Paragon department stores.
Can you explain Dr. Martens’

long-term popularity?
Like most fashion brands, we’ve had our ups and downs according to demand. However, we do try to adjust the styling to move with changes in trends without losing focus of the brand’s unique look.

Apart from being fashionable, is a big selling point the shoes’ durability?
Definitely. Most of our footwear is made using a welted construction which requires a lot more operations and is therefore more durable than a standard stuck-on sole. Name some celebrities who wear Dr. Martens. Nicki Minaj, Taylor Momsen, Chris Brown, Miley Cyrus, Avril Lavigne, Robert Pattinson, Blake Lively and so many more.

Are they still the choice of footwear for Skinheads?
Yes, very much so. We’ve had devotees fly thousands of miles to the UK head office and factory last year just because it was Dr. Martens’ 50th Anniversary

What it’s like living in Khon Kaen as an expatriate?  
 It’s a lot quieter and more laid-back compared to Bangkok. Everything moves at a much slower pace. A new Central Plaza has been built, which has really helped allow me to enjoy my time here. Before this, only Fairy Plaza existed, which is an old and very small shopping mall.  Most dining is at local Thai restaurants. That said, now Central is open, you can eat at Fuji, Zen and at other well known venues.

Khon Kaen still has a farming community feel, which is OK if you like the slow pace of life. Personally, I feel it’s too quiet and out the way but fresh air and much cheaper living - in comparison to Bangkok - helps, particularly with the rising cost of living. A new ‘Fitness First’ is about to open, so that will be good for me. The area is definitely beginning to develop, but I still prefer Bangkok.  

There are very few ‘farang’ pubs and bars, and they tend to be small and only attract a few elderly expatriate men. Other bars in Khon Kaen are Thai bars with live music which attract Thais in their teens and early twenties. 

What about your family?
My daughter lives with her mother in England so I see her when I go back to visit but I also have a partner in Bangkok - working at Harrow International School - who has two children; a son who just graduated from Harrow School and a daughter who still attends.

How much longer will you be in Thailand?
It depends on where my job takes me, I tend to look no more than two years ahead as things seem to change rather spontaneously when working as an expat. But I’m still enjoying Thailand.