Guest review by Bangkok Beefsteak & Burgundy
For the first time, we found ourselves dining at Chesa twice in a single year, making this our seventeenth visit to enjoy its fine Swiss cuisine. Chefs Rene Kuhn and Thomas Nowak must know how much we treasure both their company and their cuisine, as the menu for this lunch was at least the equal of the one we had in March.
The day began with a wonderfully subtle white wine, 2017 Féchy Domaine Du Marthery (from Switzerland of course) served as an apéritif. We then sat down for an amuse bouche course of haggis and mash – as popular as ever with Chesa’s regular customers, “perhaps” said our Swiss food spokesman Danny Arn “because of the Whisky-enhanced cream sauce”.
This was followed by a light Terrine of Chanterelles Mushrooms served with Walnut, Quail Egg, Micro Herb Salad and tangy Tomato- Vinaigrette Dressing, paired with a very nice Austrian 2015 Zillinger Radikal Grüner Veltliner. John Handley, our wine spokesman, found this to be an excellent full-bodied wine with creamy taste.
Next came Pan-Fried Sardine on Sautéed Fennel served with a Pernod- Enhanced Red Bell Pepper Sauce. I for one would have enjoyed even more of the tasty French sardines. This was well matched with 2016 Ziereisen Grauer Burgunder (Baden, Germany), a Pinot Gris made in high quality Burgundy style and John’s preferred wine of the lunch.
Our main course was Grilled Red Deer Medallion with Fresh Horseradish, served on Juniper Berry-Port Wine Reduction with Berny Potatoes (of French invention, not Swiss). This was perfectly paired with 2015 Coltassala Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Volpaia (Italy), which was also praised by both Suckling (96) and Parker (95). The venison had been specially imported for our luncheon. It was red and firm but very tasty and cooked to perfection. However, Danny ruefully bemoaned the lack of red cabbage, a beloved seasonal vegetable for the Swiss.
Homemade Apple Sherbet made with (lots of) Calvados came next to round off the savoury dishes and to pave the way for the cheese course – Tête De Moine with Quince Jam – a light Swiss finish to a great meal. This was accompanied by 2015 Glaetzer Bishop Shiraz (Australia), which made it the six different countries to be represented on the day’s wine menu.
After much fun and frivolity, Dick Stone was invited to offer thanks to the Chesa team in our customary fashion for their professionalism and hard work. And it was well after 6pm before the last of the diners stumbled home.
5 Sukhumvit Road, Khlong Toei, Bangkok 10110 Tel: 02 261 6650