Yes, it’s almost possible. But you have to be fit and unflappable
By David James
By David James
| Fed up and frustrated by the daily commute between Sukhumvit and Silom? Try cycling. Not on the main roads – they’re far too congested, polluted and generally rather terrifying – but through two of Bangkok’s parks and along the neglected pathways beside Klong Saen Saep, the busy canal that runs from Bangkapi to Khao San. Your survival rate on two wheels is pretty high. It’s not an easy ride, nor is it without its various challenges. At one point on this particular route, for example, cyclists have no choice but to cross Sukhumvit via a pedestrian bridge. And the canal path provides a number of obstacles, including some rather perilous foot bridges that are certainly not made for cycling! So, to undertake the Silom to Sukhumvit ride, you’ll have to be reasonably fit and strong and unflappable! |  |
 Lumpini Park |  |
| The journey begins well enough in Lumpini Park , which is very cycle-friendly, extremely green, lush and beautiful, especially at this time of the year. The exit on the far side of the park produces the first of the commute’s many challenges – a pedestrian bridge across Wireless Road.You have to dismount and push your bike up the stairs. At the top there’s a dedicated cyclists’ pathway that follows a once-attractive but now rather sad and grubby klong, then past the welcome greenery of the Polo Club, over the Expressway and finally down into the newly enlarged Queen Sirikit Park. En route, there are several other bridges, which require more dismounting and lugging your bike up and down stairs. This dedicated cycle path actually ends at Rajadapisek Road on the far side of Queen Sirikit Park. But if you exit slightly earlier, across a wooden bridge, you can cycle up generally quiet Sukhumvit Soi 10 to the main Sukhumvit Road. At this point, it’s necessary to carry your bike to other side of the main road and head down Soi 13 before turning right into Soi 15. Just beyond the international school at the end of this street is Klong Saen Saep, which marks the beginning of the bike journey along one of Bangkok’s busiest waterways.  |  |
Klong Saen Saep serves as a major commuter artery and alternative to Bangkok’s roads and BTS Skytrain. Its water is murky and extremely filthy. And at certain times of the year, it is also very smelly. All of this is accentuated when one of the fast-moving commuter boats churns up the water and creates waves in its wake. The canal is lined by houses ranging in style from wooden shacks to some fairly plush dwellings. Their inhabitants are plainly not bothered by Klong Saen Saep’s shortcomings.
As mentioned earlier, cyclists face constant interruptions like rickety bridges over side canals and diversions around several road bridges, including Soi Asoke, Soi 39 and Soi Thonglor. At one point too, the canal has been temporarily demolished so it’s necessary to take a short break via someone’s backyard. Permission is not needed.
Eventually, though, hardy cyclists reach Soi Ekamai (Soi 63). The klong boats go further, but for the two-wheel commuters it’s the end of the road. It may be scant reward for such an obstacle-littered ride but at least it’s avoided the polluted and hazardous streets and pavements of central Bangkok.
As mentioned earlier, cyclists face constant interruptions like rickety bridges over side canals and diversions around several road bridges, including Soi Asoke, Soi 39 and Soi Thonglor. At one point too, the canal has been temporarily demolished so it’s necessary to take a short break via someone’s backyard. Permission is not needed.
Eventually, though, hardy cyclists reach Soi Ekamai (Soi 63). The klong boats go further, but for the two-wheel commuters it’s the end of the road. It may be scant reward for such an obstacle-littered ride but at least it’s avoided the polluted and hazardous streets and pavements of central Bangkok.
