“Even a couple of years ago I’d never have imagined we’d build a house in a field, but that’s what we did”

Gareth Marshall is among a growing number of foreigners based in Thailand who have swapped city life in Bangkok for the simple pleasures and empty pastures of Esan, the country’s vast and decidedly rural Northeastern region. Despite obvious challenges and occasional setbacks, the move has proved a great success, with Gareth and his Thai wife Hana building their dream home and working farm in what was once a field with just one tree.
Born in Glasgow, Scotland, 49-year-old Gareth first arrived in Thailand in 1996, working initially in a restaurant on Koh Tao. He then taught English at the British Council, and later edited an English language business magazine. For most of the last 15 years, he’s worked at a public relations agency in Bangkok. His Thai wife Hana is originally from the Northeast city of Kalasin. They first met in Bangkok some 13 years ago.

While Hollywood’s major studios have long recognized Thailand as a great place to make movies because of its dazzling scenery, lower production costs, skilled technicians and state of the art gear and facilities, the country is also home to a slate of smaller production houses that are delivering quality TV commercials and films for leading brands across the globe.
One of the most active is Indigo Production, a Bangkok-based outfit launched eleven years ago by veteran advertising executive Adrian Van de Velde. Based in Sukhumvit, Indigo is a “one-stop shop” which incorporates traditional so called ‘live action’ filming with a recently added post-production and CGI (computer generated imagery) division. By doing so they’ve added spectacular cutting-edge 3D animation, to their existing service offering of traditional broadcast tv commercials, documentaries and online content.
Its clients include the mainstay FMCG brands under multinational giants Unilever, P&G and Coca-Cola. A global hotel chain with 1000s of properties worldwide. And a growing number of local and regional brands across Thailand, Vietnam and the Philippines. One such brand is Nutifood Vietnam a flavoured milk and yogurt producer. This project gave Indigo the perfect opportunity to launch their CGI Division.
  “As it turns out, our timing to launch ‘Indigo Post’ was remarkably prescient. While most of the industry couldn’t shoot live action because of the rolling pandemic restrictions, we didn’t skip a beat.” says Adrian Van de Velde.    

 British architect behind the Foundation funding education for children of underprivileged Thai families

Having spent 30 years in Thailand establishing the multiple-award-winning design studio, the Beaumont Partnership, Tim Beaumont is well known for his work in design and construction - and more recently his advocacy for education for the underprivileged in the kingdom.
 
In 2008, during the ongoing social and political unrest between the red and yellow shirts, Tim and his business partners began the Beaumont Partnership Foundation to create social change through education.

C​ommaso Cecca, Store Manager and Head Bartender of Camparino in Galleria, brings his concoctions and some of the bar’s iconic flavors to the heart of Bangkok at Vesper.
For many drink connois-seurs, having a cocktail at such historic and legendary bar like Camparino in Galleria in Milan would be one of the quests to be crossed off the bucket list. Well, some Bangkok drinkers were in lucky as some drinks from Milan were being served exclusively the head bartender himself at Camparino Takeover event at Vesper, along with his insights into the cocktail trend and how to stay relevant in the fast-changing world.
With 107 years of history behind it, Camparino in Galleria has now consolidated its position as an establishment that is synonymous with the Milanese aperitivo and innovative mixology at a global level, and that is far more than its refined cocktails and sophisticated atmosphere: a legacy that is intrinsically entwined with the soul of the city of Milan. And since its major facelift in 2019, the bar has also become a worldwide pioneer for innovative mixology and went on to be awarded no.27 on World’s 50 Best Bars 2021 list.
“Do you know what’s the best part of working at Camparino?” asked Tommaso Cecca, current Store Manager and Head Bartender of the historic venue, while stirring what looked like a Negroni at the bar of Bangkok’s very own Asia’s 50 Best Bar awardee. “It’s the opportunity to meet people from around the world and work with some of the most talented, most dedicated people in the industry. And I never get tired of the view of the Duomo di Milano!

For almost 100 years, the bronze statue of Britain’s revered Queen 

Victoria had price of place in the compound of the former British 
Embassy in Bangkok. When the beautiful grounds and embassy buildings were sold in 2018 to the Central Group for the then record sum of 20 billion baht and subsequently demolished, the new owners of the property said the statue would become a major attraction and retail theme in the shopping mall planned for the site.

This outraged local Brits who pointed out that the huge statue, which is inscribed with the words “Erected in loving memory by Her subjects in Siam”, was paid for by the British community at the beginning of the last century and should not have been included in the sale of the embassy.
Despite valiant efforts by the British Club Bangkok to have the statue of Queen Victoria relocated within its grounds on Silom Road, their pleas have fallen on deaf ears.

Today, the statue has been relegated to a hopefully temporary location on the banks of a dirty klong that runs along Soi Somkid in central Bangkok. It’s a forlorn and thoroughly undignified sight for such a historically 
important figure. But it’s not only Brits who are shocked and outraged - Thai people, with their deep respect for royalty, are also upset at the commercialization of the queen’s image.

The grounds of the British Club would be an ideal home for this iconic statue. Queen Victoria deserves a better place in Bangkok to reside than 
a department store. Over to you, the Central Group.

I never learnt how to play a musical instrument, and although I think I produce fairly acceptable vocals when I burst into song, not everyone is of the same opinion. Yet music has been an important part of my life, as it has for so many others like myself, who are devoid of the skills to make a musical instrument sing.
I come from Birmingham, the second largest city in the UK, and when I was 15 or 16 years old I started to head out with my friends to see live music performed by some of the biggest bands in Britain, or even from around the world. We had small, to medium, to stadium-sized venues, and a whole host of smaller pubs and nightclubs, which we flocked to, to enjoy an exciting night out. It was fantastic to see a band playing live – actually there in front of us – the rock stars that we had only previously seen on our small TV screens, There was always a palpable feeling of excitement and a buzz of electricity within the concert halls, as we waited for our heroes to hit the stage. I was hooked from the very first rock concert I went to (Irish blues / rock legend Rory Gallagher, as I recall).
When I moved to Thailand in the late 1980s I was amazed by the strangeness of the exotic new country I found myself in, and for the first year or so there was a wealth of stuff to see, do, and learn. Of course, as I travelled around I made new friends, and some of them were into music, too. We set about looking for somewhere to go to to satisfy our longing for live sounds. Bangkok was very different then to the Bangkok of today, although it was still a huge metropolis. It wasn’t, though, on the tour list of the megastars like Led Zeppelin, the Rolling Stones, David Bowie, or Pink Floyd, for example. But there were several places to go to for your live music fix, although on a smaller scale.
Places that stand out in the memory from my early days in Bangkok were Brown Sugar, The Saxophone, Tokyo Joe’s, Imageries, or The Rock Pub, and these little haunts slaked our thirst for live music, with some accomplished musicians that we were able to see strutting their stuff for only the price of a pint of beer … or a Mekong coke, which was even cheaper. It was at this time that I discovered Thai rock and pop music, and I soon became a fan of Asanee Wasant, Carabao, and Caravan, and I had also started to understand Thai traditional music, such as Luk Thung (a little).
Then the 90s and 2000s came along and bigger bands started to hit Thailand on their tours, although they were still few and far between. I did manage to catch Joan Jett and the Blackhearts, Genesis, Deep Purple, Rod Stewart, and Britpop stars Suede, though, amongst several other notable bands that are a bit hazy to recall due to rather too many glasses of Singha. The noughties marched on, and although the biggest bands still hit the shores of Thailand infrequently, the quality of the bands we could see in our local music venues, nightclubs, hotels and pubs continued to grow. Whether you were a rocker, a jazz or blues fan, or a folkie, there was something to look forward to on your night out,
Prior to the lockdowns there were two places in particular that stood out, Apotheka, and Live Lounge, that showcased an eclectic mix of musical styles. Both of these are sadly no longer with us. But Bangkok is nothing if not dynamic, and two new places have recently opened up, with more on the way.
As we continue to see more freedoms for travelers, and after Thailand fully opened up its doors again on July 1st , the two new places tourists can head to in town to join the local crowds of music lovers are The Green Room on Sukhumvit Soi 7/1, and 29 Music Bar and Grill, Mermaid Hotel, on Sukhumvit Soi 29. These two great new venues join the excellent, and already well-established Queen Bee, which is owned and run by the ever-affable John Branton, Speakerbox, and Smalls, run by the legendary nightlife entrepreneur David Jacobson. If you are from the US, or are a fan of dive bars, you shouldn’t miss Fatty’s Bar and Diner, in Dindaeng. Matthew is a muso himself, and along with his own band, Matthew Fischer and the Fishes, there is a regular music program at Fatty’s where you can catch some of the best bands or soloists in town … up close and nasty!
Let’s take a quick look at newcomer Green Room. Some of my friends had been telling me about this place for about a month or so before I went along with them to check it out… and I was glad  I did, because on the night I went the talented local legends Soi Dog Blues Band were on the bill, playing their first gig in many months, You would never have thought that they had been away for so long and they really were right back into their swing. The Green Room is a pretty small venue, and much of the area at the front is taken up by the stage area, to give the bands a bit of room to move, and engage with the audience. It’s located right next to Nana BTS station and offers some of the best live bands in Bangkok, playing everything from rock and blues, to rhythm and blues. Whether you’re looking to relax with a few drinks or get together with friends for night of live music Green Room Bangkok is the place to be. The Midnight Ramblers recently played there, and they brought the house down, with their set of rocking ‘Stones covers.
There are many excellent already established venues around town. Let’s start with the Otto Bar. The highlight of Otto Bar at the junction of Sukhumvit and Soi 22 is definitely the phenomenal rock bands and other visiting guests who play there. The house band can play just about anything – rock, punk, indie or blues, and play it note perfect. There are visiting rock bands and special guests, too. If the full rock experience, including ear thumping volume, full-on light show, thundering drums, rock god vocals and epic guitar solos is your thing then Otto's is definitely highly recommended. No cover charge, beers are fairly priced and you can order in excellent burgers or chilli
 
If you like rock and heavy metal, another good place to head to after dark is the Rock Pub on Rachathewi. A great choice for those who like their guitars loud and their bars on the dingy side, this long-running rock 'n’ roll bar has been going for over 25 years, seeing both international bands (such as Dragon Force, Take Him Down) and local talent take to the stage.
Parking Toys is well worth a visit. Although it’s not in the popular central areas of Bangkok, it’s really not that difficult to get to by taxi. Parking Toys is on Prasert Manukit Rd, near to Navamin, in Ladphrao district. Parking Toys is a hip bar and eatery known for its great selection of live bands. Parking Toys is decorated in a vintage retro style, with a 60’s vibe thrown in, with a nightly lineup of great live music, featuring everything from jazz, rock, pop, ska, and rockabilly. At Parking Toys, you’ll find yourself dancing all night, with a crowd that is mostly Thai. But the word has started to spread amongst the expat community, and also to the tourists who keep their ear to the ground. And as a bonus, the prices of food and drink are reasonable, and the serving staff are cool.
Smalls is set in a three story shophouse on Suan Plu , off Sathorn Road. Smalls is the brainchild of David Jacobson, the nightclub whiz who started the famed Q Bar in Bangkok several decades ago. The decor is decidedly Parisienne, and the on-point signature cocktail list is enhanced by a large selection of absinthe drinks, with a traditional absinthe spigot sitting on top of the bar counter. It's also well a visit on Wednesday nights for the music, as there is some great live jazz, featuring the picking prowess of Dan Phillips and his quartet, who play every week, and the bar also has plenty of special nights, when some of Bangkok’s top stars can be  seen performing.
 
Maggie Choo’s, with its 1930’s Shanghai-inspired theme, has quickly become a firm favourite hangout for those with an appreciation of quality live music in Bangkok. If you’re going for the first time, prepare to be amazed by the décor of the place: set in an old bank, things like the original vault doors, pretty models rocking back and forth on giant swings, and even a birdcage in the lobby are all Instagram-worthy material. Aside from your pretty amazing surroundings, though, you will also be amazed by the quality of the music that you will hear … jazz, blues, soul and funk all feature heavily most nights of the week.
 
As a finale to this little look at live music in Bangkok, I was lucky to talk to one of the stalwarts of the Bangkok music scene, the personable and erudite Irishman, Keith Nolan. He has been very busy recently setting up a brand-new live music venue, on Sukhumvit 29, on the ground floor of the Mermaid Hotel, slap bang in the middle of the busy Sukhumvit entertainment area. Let’s listen to what Keith has to say:
I first got to Thailand in 2000, and started playing the piano around town, jamming in some of the old music bars in Bangkok like Imageries and others that are now long gone. I met some famous and well-known Thai musicians and was invited to jam and record with some of them over the next few years. That was a great experience for me and I am honored to say that I have become firm friends with some of these talented musicians. There are many many Thai musicians I respect who are decidedly world class performers, such as Kitti Guitar Gun, Carabao, Sek Loso, Eddie Autobahn , Asanee Wasant, FLY, Silly Fools, Simon Henderson, Bruno Brugano, all the local blues and rock musicians, and such a lot more.
There were so many great live music venues, but unfortunately a lot have gone under because of Covid, and only a few have reopened. However, the light is coming back, there are new places opening again, many in China Town area, plus a few in Sukhumvit. Recently I was asked to help open a new live Jazz and Blues music venue at The Mermaid Hotel called ‘29 Music Bar and Grill’. Feel good music with a great snack menu to complement the drinks, in a small and groovy place, and we have already started live music nights with some of the best local bands, such as the Y Not band, and my own band, the Cotton Mouth Kings …we play R & B and Blues, my first love. I am lucky to have become friends with some famous international stars during my musical career, and in the future you can expect to see some of them dropping in at ‘29’. As well as the best of what we have already here in Thailand.
 
It’s a great place to meet after work and a great place for musicians, artists and writers to mingle and meet, so it’s an exciting venture, and an exciting time for me and all the music lovers and other creative people in town.  There are wine and cocktail specials all week. Jazz jam on Sunday afternoons from 4pm to 7pm. Salsa dancing on the first and third Friday of every month.
Wednesday night is Ladies night with wine and cocktails. And this is just the beginning, more is on the way!
 
 Hopefully 29 will continue to grow as Covid fears lift around the world. Bangkok is such a vibrant city, Thailand is such a great country to visit, and the buzz surrounding this new venue is something I didn’t expect. I hope those who read this piece will come along and give us a go. When I’m on a break from playing, come and say hello, I look forward to meeting you.
I have been down to 29 several times myself already, and I will definitely be going again. Top new venue in town! Now that the Covid Devil has been somewhat tamed, we can all start to enjoy our lives again. I hope that this article has given you some idea of where to head on out to … ‘If music be the food of love, play on’ …’Music makes the world go round’… ‘Music is the soundtrack of your life’ …  see ya around town!
All of the venues mentioned here are on social media, check out their Facebook pages to see what is up for grabs on the night you are planning to go out.
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