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By Bangkok Beefsteak & Burgundy
IT was our first visit to Tables Grill, the flagship restaurant of the Grand Hyatt Erawan Hotel, where we found both excellent cuisine and great service in well appointed surroundings.
Our special thanks to GM Gordon Fuller, to Sylvain Même, the attentive Manager at Tables Grill, to Chef Hans Zahner and the rest of their highly professional team.
Food spokesman Mark Guthrie took careful note of the surprise amuse bouche - a tasty tomato confit foam over a rich olive oil together with a marinated mackerel morsel on turnip. This was served with an excellent aperitif, Alma Franciacorta Bellavista Brut NV (Brescia, Italy). As usual, the wines were all provided by the Club, and we note with appreciation that Tables Grill never applies a corkage charge to wines brought from outside.
Our special thanks to GM Gordon Fuller, to Sylvain Même, the attentive Manager at Tables Grill, to Chef Hans Zahner and the rest of their highly professional team.
Food spokesman Mark Guthrie took careful note of the surprise amuse bouche - a tasty tomato confit foam over a rich olive oil together with a marinated mackerel morsel on turnip. This was served with an excellent aperitif, Alma Franciacorta Bellavista Brut NV (Brescia, Italy). As usual, the wines were all provided by the Club, and we note with appreciation that Tables Grill never applies a corkage charge to wines brought from outside.
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The first starter course was a beautifully presented Spinach & Ricotta Cannelloni with Confit Tomato and Red Cabbage. As Mark noted, it was not only delicious, but also an Atkins-friendly option, as the wrapper was made of turnip rather than traditional pasta.
This was accompanied by Gruber Röschitz Grüner Veltliner Muhlberg Reserve 2015 (Weinviertel, Austria). Already impressed by the sparkling wine, our normally outspoken winespokesman Fritz Mayer complimented Thomas Boedinger on this month’s choices; he thought the Grüner Veltliner fantastic. There followed Eggs Mollet with Green Pea Velouté and Squid Ink Croutons. It was a seemingly simple yet elegant dish featuring a perfectly soft-cooked egg that almost begged to be sopped up with tasty bread.
It was served with Kumeu River Chardonnay “Hunting Hill” 2014 (Auckland, NZ). This wine did not receive universal praise (a bit too oaky for some, including Fritz) but I enjoyed it very much.
Next came Confit Wild Norwegian Salmon served with Zucchini and Homardine Sauce. The fish itself was perfectly cooked, and nicely complimented by the surprisingly delicate lobster-based sauce. We enjoyed this dish with more of the Chardonnay, which turned out to be a great match for the salmon.
This was accompanied by Gruber Röschitz Grüner Veltliner Muhlberg Reserve 2015 (Weinviertel, Austria). Already impressed by the sparkling wine, our normally outspoken winespokesman Fritz Mayer complimented Thomas Boedinger on this month’s choices; he thought the Grüner Veltliner fantastic. There followed Eggs Mollet with Green Pea Velouté and Squid Ink Croutons. It was a seemingly simple yet elegant dish featuring a perfectly soft-cooked egg that almost begged to be sopped up with tasty bread.
It was served with Kumeu River Chardonnay “Hunting Hill” 2014 (Auckland, NZ). This wine did not receive universal praise (a bit too oaky for some, including Fritz) but I enjoyed it very much.
Next came Confit Wild Norwegian Salmon served with Zucchini and Homardine Sauce. The fish itself was perfectly cooked, and nicely complimented by the surprisingly delicate lobster-based sauce. We enjoyed this dish with more of the Chardonnay, which turned out to be a great match for the salmon.
 | Our main dish was a sizeable portion of Australian Wagyu Oyster Blade with Carrot Mille-Feuille and Beef Jus. Cooked sous-vide to ensure its tenderness, the beef looked almost like a medium rare steak, except for a pronounced natural grain typical of this cut. Topped with a carrot foam, the carrot mille-feuille was both beautiful and delicious – and nobody missed his potatoes! To match this course, we had Zenato Amarone della Valpolicella 2011 (Veneto, Italy), which had been carefully decanted a couple of hours ahead of the meal “to reveal a complex and unique beast with its intense bouquet of raisins, figs, dark cherry, dark chocolate, oak. Pure velvet on the palate, with flavours of raisin, prune, and smoky oak”, as quoted by one critic. Another great wine according to Fritz. |
Our sweet course was Chocolate Pithivier with Banana Chantilly Cream, Almond Tuile and Vanilla Ice Cream, which was accompanied by the rest
of the Amarone and then Atlan & Artisan Epistem No. 3 2013 (Mallorca, Spain). The latter is a medium-bodied wine, not overly complex, the colour of Pinot Noir but bolder taste.
The remainder of the Spanish wine was consumed along with a selection of fine cheeses generously provided by Thomas Nowak. These included French Reblochon, Swiss Vacherin Fribourgeois, and a stinky traditional Swiss mountain cheese. Even those who lost the British-European debate
over the proper order between dessert and cheese courses enjoyed them all.
It was close to 4:00 PM before we finally finished our coffees and passed on in the Club’s customary fashion our well-deserved thanks to the Tables Grill team, led by Chef Hans Zahner and Manager Sylvain.
of the Amarone and then Atlan & Artisan Epistem No. 3 2013 (Mallorca, Spain). The latter is a medium-bodied wine, not overly complex, the colour of Pinot Noir but bolder taste.
The remainder of the Spanish wine was consumed along with a selection of fine cheeses generously provided by Thomas Nowak. These included French Reblochon, Swiss Vacherin Fribourgeois, and a stinky traditional Swiss mountain cheese. Even those who lost the British-European debate
over the proper order between dessert and cheese courses enjoyed them all.
It was close to 4:00 PM before we finally finished our coffees and passed on in the Club’s customary fashion our well-deserved thanks to the Tables Grill team, led by Chef Hans Zahner and Manager Sylvain.
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