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Deliciously different but still Belgian at Belga

16/1/2020

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Guest review by Bangkok Beefsteak & Burgundy
2019 has been a great year for the Club, and it ended in the same way it began – with a visit to Belga Rooftop Bar and Brasserie on the 32nd floor of Sofitel Bangkok Sukhumvit, where we were warmly greeted by friends GM Oliver Schnatz, Chef Nicolas Bassett, and Manager (Master of Beer & Ceremony) Peter Laird.
 
Images conjured up by Belga include excellent beers, moules marinière, pommes frites, and waffles, but Chef Nico ignored these staples and instead laid on an innovative five-course menu that still paid homage to the Belgian theme.
Some who arrived early took the opportunity to sample the fine draft beers on offer, but our lunch officially began with tasty seared tuna and cheese croquet canapés accompanied by NV Alma Cuvee Franciacorta Bellavista (Lombardy, Italy), a refreshing and crisp Italian sparkler that all enjoyed.
 
Moving to the dining table, we were served Poached Canadian Lobster with Cauliflower Textures, Caviar, and Vanilla Dressing. The lobster was perfectly cooked, making it a colourful starter that was also surprisingly light tasting, as noted by Food Spokesman Mark Guthrie, who complimented Chef Nico on his use of a cauliflower puree blended with whipping cream (one of the “textures”) as the base.
 
This was matched with 2014 Tongue in Groove Waipara Riesling (South Island, NZ), which the wine maker said ‘offers a palate both rich and long yet perfectly balanced by the acid’. Wine Spokesman Jim Morrison (egged on by neighbours) was unimpressed, but all agreed it was better with food.
Our next course was Pike Perch with Wild Mushrooms, Gnocchis, and Noilly Prat Velouté. The fish was impeccably cooked with crispy skin, and the sauce was delightful – no one could fault the dish. It was accompanied by 2017 Neudorf Chardonnay Rosie’s Block (South Island, NZ), which both Jim and I thought lacked the ‘lemon-fresh acidity which brings a brightness to the medium-length finish’ as claimed by the wine maker.
 
Our main was beautifully cooked Wood Pigeon Pithiviers, served with Celeriac, Brussel Sprouts, and Chestnut. The puff pastry was perfect. The first encasing the pigeon breast with parma ham and spinach was a great choice by Chef Nico that made this a really classy dish.
 
Thomas Boedinger (Wine Master) loves Felsina Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia (Tuscany, Italy), so it was a shame he could not join this lunch to enjoy the 2015 vintage. Jim and most others thought it the best wine of the day and agreed with Robert Parker’s 94 points rating – ‘a tremendous wine with an impactful yet very elegant bouquet’.
 
Next came Brillat Savarin à la Truffe and Brown Butter Campagne Bread followed. This was a classic Triple Cream Brie to which Chef Nico added a truffle paste layer. It was sinfully delicious, especially when consumed with the golden country bread. Finally, a mercifully light Orange Blossom Crème Brulée with Honey-Chamomile Ice Cream and Nougat was presented to complete a wonderful meal.
 
December heralds the birthdays of Danny Arn and Pieter van Roon who helped us to celebrate with their contributions of Glenmorangie Malt and Bacardi Rum. We reciprocated by asking Danny and Pieter to present our thanks and gratuities to the very friendly and enthusiastic team of servers who had made the lunch a resounding success.
 
Belga Rooftop Bar & Brasserie 
Sofitel Bangkok Sukhumvit 
Tel: 02 126 9999
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