Numbers down a little on last year’s lunch, but those attending enjoyed a truly excellent repast marked by the immaculate service provided by the Brasserie 9 team, led by Luca Sigg, Food & Beverage Manager.
Proceedings started at the bar with an aperitif, 2017 Koehler Ruprecht Kallstadter Riesling Kabinett, and tasty nibbles featuring smoked salmon, crab meat, and brie. Our wine spokesman Alan Rankin told me in advance of his intention to be frank and honest, and being true to his word, he delivered by confirming he did not find any of the complexity promised by the wine-maker…
However, he found it to be “Okay”. Similarly, our next white came from the same producer, 2016 Koehler Ruprecht Kallstadter Riesling Saumagen Spätlese, and despite having received a Suckling award of 94 points, it failed to live up to our expectations (though Alan thought it might improve with age).
This wine accompanied a small amuse bouche, Homemade Foie Gras Terrine with Port Wine Jelly and Brioche. Our food spokesman Thomas Nowak, who complimented the quality of the breads served throughout the meal, ultimately expressed satisfaction at this modest serving of Foie Gras, considering how much else followed it.
It was served together with 2017 Enderle&Moll Spätburgunder, a light (some might say thin tasting) rosé style Pinot Noir that left most of us with puckered lips, thanks to its dryness. Although a bit better with food, its “slightly surprisingly grippy finish”, as described by one critic, I thought was the understatement of the day. As always, the Club chose the wines so we are solely responsible.
A generous helping of Mushroom Cream Soup with a scent of truffle came next, piping hot and lacking nothing but perhaps a trifle more decoration. It came with 2013 Gaja Ca Marcanda Promis (Merlot-Syrah) which received the seal of approval from Alan which he thought was well matched to the richness of the soup.
The main dish of the day was Pistachio Crusted Rack of Lamb, with Ratatouille, Gratin Dauphinoise and Bordeaux sauce. The serving was filling, the lamb very tasty and perfectly cooked, and the only small fault to be found was the temperature at which it was served (perhaps partly our fault for requesting a slight delay in service, as well as the distance between kitchen and dining room on the floor above).
Along with this came Alan’s favorite wine of the day, 2015 Domaine Roche Audran Châteauneuf du Pape, smooth and full of black fruit, stony minerality, herbs, black pepper, black olive, cinnamon and spice. This was luxurious velvety stuff. A true pleasure to drink on its own, but a prime candidate for herb-roasted meats, attracting 94 points from Parker but possibly deserving of even more.
As a group we are not much for the “sweeties”, but this pairing worked very well. We also enjoyed a 21-year-old bottle of Highland Park malt whisky presented to us by John Handley, who will celebrate his birthday shortly. The diners expressed their gratitude in customary fashion, asking John to present our thanks to the Brasserie 9 Team who had seemingly effortlessly delivered both food and service in exemplary style.
27 Soi Sathon 6, Khwaeng Silom,
Bang Rak 10500
Tel: 02 234 2588