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Signor Sassi

7/10/2013

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From London to Bangkok, this iconic restaurant offers Italian dining at its best
AS one of London’s most popular Italian restaurants, Signor Sassi has the fine-dining formula down to a tee. Food made with only the best imported ingredients? Check. Signature dishes you won’t find elsewhere? Check. Sumptuous surroundings and celebrity clients? Check and check.
   
The good news is that you don’t have to fork out for a flight to the UK to enjoy all this because, since opening in September 2012, the Bangkok branch of Signor Sassi has been painstakingly developed to provide everything that makes the London flagship so popular, right here in the City of Angels.
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Located on the 37th floor of the Anantara Bangkok Sathorn, a five-star hotel close to Chong Nonsi BTS station and Arkhan Songkhro BRT station, this standalone restaurant boasts elegant décor with classical elements ‒ think tables topped with crisp white tablecloths, silver cutlery polished so well that it gleams, and service staff dressed to impress. Photos of Thai celebs who’ve dined at the restaurant line the back walls, while the vast expanse of the city, spied through floor-to-ceiling windows which sweep between the dining room and a large outdoor terrace, puts on a dazzling performance every night.
   
Executive Chef Filippo Pagani, a Signor Sassi veteran whose past experience includes opening two international franchises of the brand in Kuwait, creates around 90% of his dishes (the same menu as the London branch, plus a specials menu unique to Bangkok) using top quality produce imported from Italy. Among the imports: the famed Morelli mushroom, a wild, truffle-like delicacy which costs B6,000 per kilo and adds plenty of rich flavour to dishes such as Scalloppine Morrelli (veal scaloppine with a creamy sauce. B1,680++).
   
While Signor Sassi snubs pizza ‒ normally a ubiquitous Italian restaurant staple ‒ in favour of more refined dishes, that’s not to say that the cuisine on offer is complicated. The reason the London branch has been doing a roaring trade since it opened in 1984 is due in large part to its simplicity ‒ ingredients retain their natural integrity (no molecular-style tinkering here) and food on the plate is instantly recognizable.
  
The Venice-inspired Cod pâté (Pate di Baccala alla Venezia. B510++), spread on toasted home-made bread, is simply irresistible, delighting the palate with a wonderfully smooth, creamy texture and taste, the results of expert blending with olive oil and a touch of milk. The Spaghetti Lobster (B1,625++), a Signor Sassi classic, is just as good, wowing with its rich bisque-like flavour, perfectly cooked angel hair pasta, and succulent pieces of fresh lobster.
   
Other highlights include the signature Caesar salad with chicken (B640++); Monk fish with white wine, tomato and Radicchio sauce (B1,370++); and Lamb Noisettes with gravy mint sauce (B1,520++) ‒ all simple yet delicious dishes which showcase Chef Filippo’s talent for harmonizing the vibrant flavours of each ingredient he uses.
   
Rounding out the experience are a good selection of antipasti, soups, salads, grilled meats, and home-made desserts (try the Tiramisu. B360++) and, as you’d expect from a restaurant of this caliber, an extensive wine list featuring some of Italy's finest labels.

Anantara Bangkok Sathorn (37th floor), Narathiwat-Ratchanakarin Rd. Open daily 12 Noon-2.30pm; 6pm-11pm ☎ 02 210 9011 or 02 286 9688 :signorsassi.co.uk 
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